When Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan laid the foundation for his new capital north of the ruins of Delhi in 1640, could he have known that his mighty Shahjahanad would become the last in a long line of 'Old' Delhis? Today, the walled city offers wonderful and unusual experiences to locals and visitors alike. The intense commercial hustle of the main streets fades away as one travels deeper into the complex maze of meandering streets and curiously named neighbourhoods, and it is easy enough to suddenly find oneself in a quiet sun-dappled courtyard dating to the early 19th century. It is this curious mix of contradictions that best defines Shahjahanabad: it is both boisterous and peaceful, commercial and cultured, decadent and decaying, dated, and yet so full of life. Dress conservatively, wear comfortable shoes, and, most importantly, carry along a healthy appetite.