For hundreds of years Leith was a port town and separate from the City of Edinburgh (which it only joined in 1920) and that commercial and industrial past has left its mark on the area. Leith has an attitude like nowhere else in the city. Indeed, it still has a stubborn, independent streak to this day.
The dockers and shipyards may now be mostly gone, but recent gentrification has seen families, young professionals, immigrants and students move to the area. Today you’ll be spoilt for choice with artisan cafes, bakeries and bars, fine dining and independent shops - not to mention an active creative scene.
Gritty, vibrant and changing for the better - just be careful not to run into Irvine Welsh’s Trainspotting character Begbie.
Modern European eatery open for breakfast, lunch, and dinner
Montreal-style bagels in Scotland
Industrial Estate Brewery Taproom
Vintage boutique
Venue and Bar
Gourmet Burgers & Beers
Intimate Asian Fusion
Sicilian Street Food
Nautical Cocktails
Barbers & Craic
Laid Back Bistro
Eateries & Drinkeries
An absolute Leith institution
Responsibly Sourced Boozer
Late Night Pies
Brunch Spot at The Shore
Sourdough Breads, Pastries and Doughnuts
Flagship Coffee
The Best Brunch. Period.
Antiques & Vintage
Historic Italian Food
The best sourdough pizza
Speciality coffee
Big Hot Focaccia Sandwiches
After visiting any of the bars in this guide, you might find yourself having had one too many drinks, and a lack of sustenance. Storries pies have actually been known to save lives - they’re a thing of legend in Leith.
Importantly, their unfathomable opening hours (they seem to be open all hours of the night) means a visit to this no-nonsense, old-school bakery is perfect for when the pubs close.
Classic steak pie is always a safe bet for first timers. At around a bargain £1.50 per pie you should take one home too - a macaroni cheese pie, perhaps, or try the chicken curry one.
Look for the little queue forming out the door and the bright yellow glow. You’re nearly home.
