Visiting Nhu Lan is as much a cult food-experience as it is a thrilling exhibition of food prep and organisational skills. Witnessing a Vietnamese roll being assembled by 1 of the 173 staff behind the counter will make even the most efficient person feel like a disorganised sloth. You’re here for one thing though; bánh mì. The extensively-written-about pork rolls consistently come in at the top end of “best bánh mì” lists around Melbourne, so let's focus on the quiet-achieving tofu offering instead. Locals will forever passionately debate (ie. throw tantrums) over who produces a better tofu bánh mì; Nhu Lan or To’s. For us, Nhu Lan wins hands-down. The lemongrass, the sauce, the crispy rolls, the fried onion. It’s a masterpiece. Add a can of 100 Plus and you’ve got yourself the unofficial Footscray Meal-Deal. Don’t be thrown off by the perpetual sardine-can “line”, just jump in and join the ride. Photography by Gianna Rizzo.