A modern restaurant space with sweeps of light grey marble and tables adorned with garlands of yellow sempreviva flowers — “they come from a priest in Kythira, along with our salt and honey” — Milos is the creation of Costas Spiliadis, whose passion for high-quality, authentic Greek cuisine has set him on a lifelong journey to steer us away from moussaka and towards salt crust sea bream, Cretan fava beans and karidopita walnut cake soaked in spiced syrup and orange. They call the central mound of fresh Mediterranean fish on ice ‘the market’ — hokey name but something to behold.