Sumptuous interiors with lashings of gold leaf filigree, ornate carpets in swirls of green and pink, and incomparable stucco work, this fine dining institution is a wonder of perfectly harmonised parts. From the incredible kitchen to the intricate dance of waiters in the main dining room, all is expertly synchronised by maestro head chef John Williams. Old world grandeur certainly, but also a century ahead in the careful sourcing of ingredients and a champion of seasonality.